Pete's complete rebuild (hope it works). - Page 4

EB Pete · 16-08-2006, 07:06 PM

well i planned to replace the distrubuter cap, leads and rotor this arvo aswell as get the radiator in. i only just got the dizzy cap, leads and rotor finished just then. what a pian in the *** job! i also checked my timing again, and i've got a question. How can you be 180 degrees out on the timing? is it if you set the dizzy up on exhaust TDC?

still to go is new uni's, tail shaft in, radiator, thermo switch and extractors.

EB Pete · 17-08-2006, 08:57 PM

well i got the old uni's out this arvo and the new ones in. lucky i did it as both of the uni's were a bit shot. on each of em at least 2 ofthe rollers had ceased up so should feel alot different now. so now all to do is the diff and the whole drive line will be new.

might be going tomorrow arvo, if not definatly saturday.

gngtho · 17-08-2006, 09:13 PM

can't wait for the finnished product!

EB Pete · 21-08-2006, 10:17 PM

hi all,

well it's all systems go! finally! i took it for a run tonight and done 50km around windy hilly roads in drive to get the motor working. i stalled her up to 2500rpm and let it go and she went ok. only thing that i have found wrong at the moment is after about 40km it wasn't changing into 4th so i'll give the auto place that rebuilt it a ring tomorrow and get them to have a look at it. other then that it's alot better then it was but i am deffinatly getting a lot bigger cam!

pete j

ebs_4l · 22-08-2006, 01:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EB Pete

How can you be 180 degrees out on the timing? is it if you set the dizzy up on exhaust TDC?

quite easily, cos you need to have it set at tdc 'compression' not 'exhaust'

anyway, excellent results, its good when all your hard work pays off

EB Pete · 22-08-2006, 07:52 PM

hi all,

gave the auto place a ring today and they are going to have a look at it tomorrow. i took it for another drivethis arvo and it was changing into 4th and the convertor was locking up so i'll see what they say.

other then that i'm a bit dissapionted in the power. it doesn't really feel that much better so yeah. i don't know how much a computer and custom tune will give it or the cam dialed in properly but i hope it does alot. i'm thinking i'll get a bigger cam very soon but i am unsure as to how much bigger i can go cause with my current cam the P to V clearance is 90-100thou on the intake. anyone know how much bigger i can go?

i've still got the diff to do and i'm thinking about getting a locker with either 3.7's or 3.89 diff gears, maybe that will make it a bit better.

as you can tell from my write up i'm very dissapionted with the result and looking for reasons why it isn't so good. so if anyone can shed some light on my power problems please post away.

thanks
pete j

ebs_4l · 23-08-2006, 01:01 AM

have you cranked up the ign timing?? theres you biggest bang for buck mod, run upto aroung 15deg advance, depending on your comp ratio, sorry, cant be stuffed looking to find it, on a std engine you can run 18deg, on my engine that was 10.4:1 i ran 12-13deg

BI6TIM · 23-08-2006, 07:38 AM

Pete a computer and a slightly bigger cam will make a world of difference. When talking about cam's you don't nessesarily want to get a cam with tonnes more lift than what you have now, there is a lot more to cams than just lift. It's so much better to have an aftermarket ECU, the difference is unbelievable. The standard computer plays all sorts of games when you try to tell it to run with any decent sized cam.

Plus if you have a lumpy cam, some computers can run a different style of fuel enrichment which doesn't use the MAP sensor which means you can make it have a near perfect idle.

vegabass · 23-08-2006, 07:49 AM

Hey Pete I havent been in here for a while, but you must be happy your engine is in its rightful home and that it works!!!! some fine tuneing maybe but it works!

The paint has come up a million bucks!

Cant wait to see it in person!

EB Pete · 23-08-2006, 08:28 PM

thanks for the replys guys.

ebs 4l, i'm running a 10:1 comp with a 40 thou head gasket, but i used the au head gasket so it should beup around 10.4? the timing at idle varies (due to idle) from 10 to 13 so i'll wind it up about. i still have to short out those 2 pins and do it properly. it's the 2 left side (top and bottom) pins isn't it?

BI6TIM, i hope your right with the computer. i think if i keep the lift around .520'' and get a duration near 220 @ 0.050' and tighten up the LSA i should be right. just need surecam to get back to me (been about a month and a bit now).

vegabass, yeah i suposse it does go so i can't complain to much. the paint did come up good but we scratched it abit butting the motor in. i'lll be down in brissy in the next few weeks getting the computer so we should be able to meet.

other then that it was running alright today. took it up and down the toowoomba range 8 times today to bed the rings in. on the last run (4 in a row going on 5th) the power light started flashing meaning the tranny was a bit warm. i'm going to need to get another oil cooler. anyone know of a decent size 1 that actually does somthing? i got a davis craige one there now and i'm not running it through the radiator. thought i'de hold out till the end to tell you all the good news. after driving it all day i got it home and gave it a good look over to check for leaks ect. i think i worked out why it isn't really pulling hard. the throttle cable got damaged when we put the motor in and i didn't think anything of it. turns out it's only opening about 75% so that might be me problem.

pete j

ebs_4l · 23-08-2006, 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EB Pete

it's the 2 left side (top and bottom) pins isn't it?

just need surecam to get back to me (been about a month and a bit now)

yes, correct, top and bottom left pins

give surecam a call, they can be a bit slack in the email department

get an autronic ecu...

and, id say, bingo, 75% throttle doesnt help anyone

BI6TIM · 24-08-2006, 07:25 AM

^^ Agreed, all bar the Autronic bit. Not that I don't like Autronic, but that I wouldn't recomend something I know nothing about.

You need to badger Phill at Surecam, call him and if he doesn't give you what you want, call again the next day. he'll sound like he's getting upset with you but he'll get you the cam you want.

atec77 · 24-08-2006, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EB Pete

think i found a place in brissy. does anyone know what C.F.M. stands for somthing to do with head flow i think. what do the auto shops need to fit a shift kit to me auto? can they do it with just the auto?

cubic feet per minute
for head work call liddles in the 'burbs south west .

EB Pete · 24-08-2006, 08:55 PM

hi all,

well i don't know much about the ecu side of things but i would like to buy a computer that i can still tune my car with but still keep the ford computer there for the smart lock. i'm going to get red cliff dyno and performance to do it all. so what is the best computer suited to my needs? i also read that the ms2 is nearly ready to be able to change the auto settings?

is sure cam still open in brissy or have they moved to sydney. just read that so i'm unsure but will try them again tomorrow.

took the power steer cooler off me mates ED today to fit it onto my car.

had to fix it up and clean all the crap off it. will be painting it tomorrow.

for the diff i'm thinking about 3.7s diff gears with a locker. what do you all think about that? i've heard LSD's arn't that good and i'm not to keen on a mini spool. i have also been looking at PWR tranny oil coolers. has anyone got these on heard what they're like?

pete j

EB Pete · 26-08-2006, 06:45 PM

Hi all,

well a few things are starting to pop up now now that it has done a few km. there seems to be a bit of oil running down the block near the bellhousing on the exhaust side, stalling on start up and starter moter not kicking in properly. few of them i know whats wrong bar the oil. anyone have any idea why it would be leaking there? i don't think there is an oil jacket there.

anyway as for the performance i'm getting the new throttle cable tuesday, car is going on the dyno wednesday to get the cam dialed in properly, idle set and timing, and will be getting the diff done in the next few weeks. after that the computer will be getting installed (don't know what yet) and i'll see how it goes but maybe another cam.

so tomorrow it gets it's first bath in over 7 months and a good polish. pretty much just clean her all up. then just muck around with the steering pump cooler and see where i can mount it.

pete j

Christiaan · 26-08-2006, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EB Pete

Hi all,

well a few things are starting to pop up now now that it has done a few km. there seems to be a bit of oil running down the block near the bellhousing on the exhaust side, stalling on start up and starter moter not kicking in properly. few of them i know whats wrong bar the oil. anyone have any idea why it would be leaking there? i don't think there is an oil jacket there.

anyway as for the performance i'm getting the new throttle cable tuesday, car is going on the dyno wednesday to get the cam dialed in properly, idle set and timing, and will be getting the diff done in the next few weeks. after that the computer will be getting installed (don't know what yet) and i'll see how it goes but maybe another cam.

so tomorrow it gets it's first bath in over 7 months and a good polish. pretty much just clean her all up. then just muck around with the steering pump cooler and see where i can mount it.

pete j

I have the same oil leak.

Let me know if you find out what it is.. I thought it was from the back of the rocker cover, but it seems to be dry there. It's got me fugged.

EB Pete · 27-08-2006, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shuresm58

I have the same oil leak.

Let me know if you find out what it is.. I thought it was from the back of the rocker cover, but it seems to be dry there. It's got me fugged.

hi all,

well i have investigated this oil leak and it's got me stumped. here it is:

that oil leak is on the exhaust side of the block, between the head and block, inline with or a bit towards to back of cylinder 6. heres another pic:

all i can think of that would cause this is if that head bolt wasn't torqued up properly (which i checked about 4 times). cause that isn't a oil jacket there as i have checked on the old head gasket. if anyone knows why/what i should do please help.

heres a pic of the steer pump oil cooler before:

and after:

so i'm thinking i will mount it in front of the radiator and maybe even run it through the radiator cooler. all i need now is some rubber hose which i'll get tomorrow and a mount which the old man will be making up.

as for cooling the tranny oil i'm thinking about either getting another 2 davies craige oil coolers and running the 3 of them in series, or get a nice big PWR cooler and run that in series with the davies craige cooler i have already got.

anyone no where i can get my diff done? wanting to go to LSD with 3.7 diff gears. maybe mal wood in warwick?

and finally an ecu. i no nothing about them so whats best suited to me? i would like to be able to tune it myself (after the 1st tune/install), have the thermos run off it, keep smartlock (i think?). thats all i can think of at the moment. if there is any other things that i could run off a new computer please let me know.

thanks
pete j

vegabass · 27-08-2006, 07:44 PM

get the new throttle cable!!!!!!!!!

EB Pete · 27-08-2006, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vegabass

get the new throttle cable!!!!!!!!!

nah. could get 1 from ford but i'm not paying $68 for it! so i orded a genuine 1 through a auto place for $45 and it will be in tuesday, so i have to get it in in time for it to go on the dyno wednesday.

anyone every changed the throttle cable? how do i go about doin it cause i'll most probably brake somthing!

pete j

ebs_4l · 28-08-2006, 01:26 AM

needs to be removed from the pedal side, unclip it from the throttle, unbolt the pedal mount and pull it through

BI6TIM · 28-08-2006, 07:31 AM

Two things Pete. Why do you want to keep smart lock? and secondly, don't go to Mal Wood for the diff, you'll come home with only one testicle because the other one will be required for payment. He is VERY expencive.
I would say stick with the LSD, they seem to last much longer behind automatics. Minispools are illigal and all other options are expencive.

XRated · 28-08-2006, 12:33 PM

Go a Lokka Pete.

BOOSTDEF · 28-08-2006, 02:30 PM

Hey pete, that motor is looking sweet mate. Top stuff.

You will be surprised what fine tuning will do mate, so dont stress atm.

With the tranny, mine also doesnt change into 4th sometimes unless i give it a quick rev and then it will lock in. It has more to do with the stally than the box itself. Also, put your trans cooler behind one of the vents in your front guard. It will always keep cool there mate.

EB Pete · 28-08-2006, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BI6TIM

Two things Pete. Why do you want to keep smart lock? and secondly, don't go to Mal Wood for the diff, you'll come home with only one testicle because the other one will be required for payment. He is VERY expencive.
I would say stick with the LSD, they seem to last much longer behind automatics. Minispools are illigal and all other options are expencive.

well i don't know much about the ecu things but i thought smartlock was a good system. as for Mal Wood i agree with the price. i got quoted $1475 for 3.7 diff gears, rebuilt LSD drive in drive out! think i'll ring around tomorrow.

pete j

MADED-6 · 28-08-2006, 05:29 PM

can u post up with the cheapest price u get mate im interested.
cheers josh.

EB Pete · 28-08-2006, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebs_4l

needs to be removed from the pedal side, unclip it from the throttle, unbolt the pedal mount and pull it through

so i unclip it from the throttle body, un clip from throttle then what? i noticed that it has a little shroud around it where it comes through the firewall. what do i do with it? do i take that out and replace it? i have no idea sorry.

also do the head bolts need to be torqued up again once they have been done initially? just asking as i have an oil leak between the head and block. theres 2 pics of it in a previous post.

thanks
pete j

28-08-2006, 08:39 PM

yeah just tourqe them up again. not sure what the NM is after youve done the 120 degree's though. maybe just go a tad over what the tension is now. also are you sure its oil? its possibly coolant because the water galleries is right next to that leak.

EB Pete · 28-08-2006, 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John_xr6

yeah just tourqe them up again. not sure what the NM is after youve done the 120 degree's though. maybe just go a tad over what the tension is now. also are you sure its oil? its possibly coolant because the water galleries is right next to that leak.

well i'll have another look but i'm pretty sure it's oil. thats what i can't work out though, there is no oil jacket there unless it's leaking from the cylinder which i very much dobt. where did this 120 degrees come from? i went 40Nm then 90 degrees extra. i don't want to stuff somthing up so are you surei can go torque em up a bit more?

also i'm stumped on what oil weight/brand to run. i'm up to 500km and need to change it soon so can anyone help me? i'm thinking maybe Penrite 10w 40 semi synthetic? or should i go a full synthetic and a 15w 50?

thanks
pete j

MADED-6 · 28-08-2006, 10:09 PM

yeah its 40nm then 90 degrees its even says it on the head gasket kits i got. and dont go synthetic ull waiste ur money just get some cheapish good oil in to it and dump it in another 1000k.
cheers josh.

NeishaXR8_347 · 28-08-2006, 10:12 PM

Once you undo the head bolts you may aswell throw them in the bin they will be useless. Once they have been torqued up and then undone they are stretched and throw aways thats why they need to be replaced. Also with the oil its to early to put in semi syn yet, just get a good mineral oil, put in a semi syn after about 5000kays and full at the next service. i would get a good 15w 50 or something close.

Shaun.